Art Deco 0.50ct Ruby and Diamond Three Stone Ring, c.1930s
18 Carat Yellow Gold & Platinum
1870s – 1940s. This is the transition between the old European and the modern brilliant cuts. The angles of these stones are more similar to the modern brilliant to other antique cuts. For example, the table facet size is increased, and culets are nearly nonexistent or ‘somewhat large’ but could not be described as ‘large’ or ‘open’.
A unique diamond cut that was developed in 1902 by the Asscher brothers. They were initially famous for cutting the worlds largest stone, the Culinan (3106 carats), and is characterized by its shape, which is similar to an emerald cut, but square and with larger step facets and cut corners. The Asscher cut peaked in demand in the 1920’s, but since the early 2000’s has had a resurgence in popularity.
A method of setting whereby stones are set and secured between a number of ‘claws’, usually four, six or eight. The method of setting was popularised by Tiffany & Co. in the late 1880s, and allows more light to pass through a gemstone than other settings. Sometimes referred to as prong set.
A metal prized for its rarity, whiteness, high tensile strength and insusceptibility to corrosion. It first became widely used in jewellery in the late nineteenth century, when methods were found to make it more easily workable. It features heavily in the delicate Edwardian jewellery of the first decades of the twentieth century.
A term used to describe the severity of the internal and external inclusions in a gemstone. See The Four C’s for further information.
Derived from the Greek meaning ‘unbreakable’, diamond is a mineral, considered to be the most beautiful and rare of all gemstones. Diamond has been associated with love for centuries.
The diamond colour grading scale ranges from D to Z. See The Four C’s for more information.
A weight measurement of a gemstone or gold. The term is derived from the ancient used of carob seeds to balance scales when selling amounts of gold or gemstones. The term is often shortened to ‘ct’.
A red gemstone and variety of the mineral corundum. In ancient Sanskrit ruby is known as ‘ratnaraj’ meaning ‘the king of precious stones’. Throughout the ages ruby has been regarded as the stone of royalty and the upper classes. Its red colour makes it also the stone of love and passion. The famous Black Prince Ruby was discovered to be a Red Spinel by scientists in the 19th century. Today it sits in the British Imperial Crown, next to the Cullinan II diamond. Ruby is 9 on the Mohs scale. Read more
The section of the ring which fits round the finger. Also known as a shank.
A chemical element with the symbol Au. Gold is a yellow, malleable metal which makes it perfect for use in jewellery making.
One of the most defining characteristics of a diamond is its cut. While high grades of color, clarity, and carat weight affect a diamond, it's the cut that determines the symmetry of the stone's facets, its overall proportions, and its ability to reflect light. An expertly cut diamond will achieve high levels of brilliance, sparkle, and durability. For more information and cut types, see The Four C's.
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